Phophonyane Falls Nature Reserve

Ten kilometres north of Piggs Peak, a 600-hectare private reserve protects a forest of unusual geological and biological significance. The 80-metre Phophonyane Waterfall tumbles over ancient exposed bedrock in a series of cascading rapids — and the rock over which it falls has been dated at 3.55 billion years old, making these among the oldest exposed geological formations on the surface of the earth. The Gobolondlo forest surrounding the falls is lush, subtropical, and densely inhabited. Troops of banded mongooses and vervet monkeys move through the understorey. The red duiker — shy and small — appears and disappears in the undergrowth.

Over 240 bird species have been recorded within this compact reserve, and the most coveted of them, the Narina Trogon, an elusive bird of brilliant green and crimson, serves as the reserve's emblem. The combination of subtropical forest, waterfall spray zone, and varied terrain within a compact 600 hectares produces exceptional bird diversity for a private reserve. Beyond the Trogon: kingfishers, sunbirds, barbets, warblers, and the full complement of forest and riverside species make Phophonyane one of the best birding locations in the northwestern highlands.

Walking the trail to the waterfall base and standing on the ancient bedrock — understanding that this specific rock surface formed when the earth was less than a quarter of its current age, when no multi-cellular life existed anywhere — produces a specific quality of perspective. The waterfall is beautiful. The rock it falls over is extraordinary. Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge operates as the basecamp for exploring this remarkable environment: chalets and tented accommodation positioned in the forest, walking trails radiating from the lodge, and access to the falls via short trail. It is the smallest and most overlooked of Eswatini's major reserves. It rewards the birder, the botanist, the geologist, and the traveller who simply wants a forest morning with a waterfall at the end of it.